Tuesday, 23 June 2015

Arras, around and about

After Luxembourg we had quite a long drive. We had originally decided to stop half way, but we kept going. This meant we could stay longer in Arras.
Arras is famous for its two striking squares, made of 155 houses rebuilt in the original style of the 17th and 18th centuries. The squares were built in a Spanish and Flemish style and are classified as Historical Monuments.

 P1110241

P1110232  P1110236

  In Northern France and Belgium the tradition of giants goes back as far as the 16th century. These giants are market gardeners from Achicourt.    

P1110247

  The Wellington Quarry  was opened in 2008. It is an underground museum which has been created in a section of the many kilometres of tunnels dug by the British Army in the 1914-1918 war. The First World War tunnels connect with original tunnels and quarries dating back to the Middle Ages and Roman times underneath the city of Arras.
Stuart ready to go.
Sue wouldn’t be photographed. Don’t know why!
   

                     P1110172

  Double click photos to enlarge.
Tunnel with some of the old trucks.
Exit tunnel from where the attack began.  

P1110182       P1110184

This museum can be found on the edge of Arras and is well worth a visit. It is a guided tour, but not too long.   Two of the display photos

P1110191  P1110192

  From the campsite we drove about 12 miles to the Canadian National Vimy Memorial. During the Great War this was known as hill 145 because of its height 145 metres.
At the start of the Battle of Arras on 9th April 1917 all four divisions of the Canadian Corps took part in the Battle of Vimy Ridge, attacking the German Front Line between Souchez and Écurie.

Extract from The Great War website
‘The Canadian National Vimy Memorial is a memorial to all Canadians who served their country in battle during the the Great War of 1914-1918. 60,000 Canadians were killed. Over 11,000 of those killed died in France but they have no known grave. The Canadian National Vimy Memorial bears the inscribed names of 11,168 missing Canadians, killed in action in France but whose remains have not been found or identified.’
   

         P1110213

  View from the memorial over the Douai plain.    

            P1110220

  Canadian Memorial Park – preserved trenches and craters
The ‘sand bags’ have now been replaced by concrete so they will last for a very long time.
   

           P1110206  P1110202

  This is where the original trenches were, hence the unevenness of the ground    

          P1110209  P1110199

On the following day we visited 5 WWI sites. This was where the Front Line was in 1916 so they were all close together. As you drive along there are road signs marking the Front Line.
Our first stop was the Lochnagar Crater:
’The completed Lochnagar tunnel was 4.5 by 2.5 feet and had been excavated at a rate of about 18 inches per day until about 1,030 feet long, with the galleries beneath theSchwabenhöhe The mines were laid without interference by German miners but as the explosives were placed, German miners could be heard below Lochnagar and above Y Sap. Lochnagar was loaded with 60,000 pounds of Ammonal, in two charges of 36,000 pounds and 24,000 pounds, 60 apart and 52 feet deep. Just north of the village, Y Sap was charged with 40,600 pounds of Ammonal.’
The crater is almost 300 feet in diameter and 70 feet deep.

                      P1110263

P1110252  P1110257

Visit two was to the Welsh Memorial of Mametz – this was a difficult memorial to find, but once there we found this impressive memorial

P1110265   P1110269

P1110272  P1110276

Mametz Wood viewed from the memorial

P1110275

  Thiepval Memorial

Historical Information - On 1 July 1916, supported by a French attack to the south, thirteen divisions of Commonwealth forces launched an offensive on a line from north of Gommecourt to Maricourt. Despite a preliminary bombardment lasting seven days, the German defences were barely touched and the attack met unexpectedly fierce resistance. Losses were catastrophic and with only minimal advances on the southern flank, the initial attack was a failure. In the following weeks, huge resources of manpower and equipment were deployed in an attempt to exploit the modest successes of the first day. However, the German Army resisted tenaciously and repeated attacks and counter attacks meant a major battle for every village, copse and farmhouse gained. At the end of September, Thiepval was finally captured. The village had been an original objective of 1 July. Attacks north and east continued throughout October and into November in increasingly difficult weather conditions. The Battle of the Somme finally ended on 18 November with the onset of winter.

 

 

                   P1110283 

 

The Thiepval Memorial, the Memorial to the Missing of the Somme, bears the names of more than 72,000 officers and men of the United Kingdom and South African forces who died in the Somme sector before 20 March 1918 and have no known grave. Over 90% of those commemorated died between July and November 1916. The memorial also serves as an Anglo-French Battle Memorial in recognition of the joint nature of the 1916 offensive and a small cemetery containing equal numbers of Commonwealth and French graves lies at the foot of the memorial.

The weather was so bad I even had rain on the camera lens!

   

P1110291   P1110288

  The Ulster Memorial Tower is a Somme battlefield memorial to the men of the 36th (Ulster) Division. It commemorates the heavy losses suffered by 36th Division on 1st July 1916, the first day of the Battle of the Somme.    

                      P1110298

  Newfoundland Memorial Park, Beaumont Hamel - The Newfoundland Memorial Park was opened on 7th June 1925 by Field Marshal Earl Haig. Newfoundland became a province of Canada in 1949.

The Caribou Memorial                                                             An old trench line
   

P1110310  P1110321

  Y Ravine Cemetery is within the Memorial Park -

‘This cemetery was started in the spring of 1917 by the British V Corps and was originally called Y Ravine Cemetery No. 1. By that time the British Front Line had moved further east beyond the 1st July 1916 battle lines so it was possible to retrieve and bury soldiers who had been lying in this area for the best part of a year.
There are over 400 casualties commemorated in this cemetery, many of which are unidentified. There are 275 identified burials in the cemetery. There are also 53 individuals from the United Kingdom and 8 individuals from Newfoundland named on memorials in the cemetery who are believed to be buried in this site among the unidentified graves.’

   

P1110323  P1110324

Better weather prevailed on our last day in this area. We visited Cambrai which was about 14 miles away.
Cambrai was the Duke of Wellington’s headquarters, for the British Army of Occupation, from 1815 to 1818. Waterloo isn’t too far away. Cambrai was partly destroyed in WWI, but it hasn’t been rebuilt to the same standards as Arras or Ypres. We did a walking tour (map provided by the tourist office) and visited the more interesting places

         Notre Dame’s Gate                                                   Porte de Paris

P1110341  P1110331

P1110343
This goes with the photo below –
I’ll let you work it out.




The "gunners' house" in Cambrai is an example of 17th-century Flemish architecture

P1110342  P1110335

  Vis En Artois British Cemetery – notice the Jewish headstone with the stones placed on the top. We have seen this many times in cemeteries, but not known why. It seems that there are quite a few theories, but no one theory is the definitive one.    

P1110347

Oldie Photos – In 1988 a group of teachers from Dortmund visited the WWI battlefields near Arras.
Some of you reading this might recognise a few faces

1988 – Lochnagar Crater – Luke W at the bottom Newfoundland Memorial – LukeW to the rear and I think a Gibson in the front.

2012-12-28_13  2012-12-28_25 

Canadian Memorial Park
It’s the same mortar as previously shown –    it hasn’t moved!
Are you in the photo? I can see Sue, LW, DWo, CWo, CD, PMo, CSch, Judith W

2012-12-28_16  2012-12-28_14

  That completes our trip to France, Belgium and Luxembourg I hope you enjoyed it. Sue and I did!    

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

Rosport, Lux. and a little bit of Germany

 

After Luxembourg city we moved east to Rosport, a small village, on the River Sure.
The campsite is by the river and is quite large. This site like the previous one had excellent facilities that looked very new.
From here I could ride my bike along the well appointed cycle tracks. Many a morning I cycled to Echternach on the
German side of the Sure and returned on the Luxembourg side.












One of our days out started with a visit to the Luxembourg American Cemetery. Extract from their website ‘The cemetery consists of 17 acres of  lawn surrounded by 33 acres of woods.
Entering through the gates, the visitor will see the impressive memorial chapel encompassed by a stone terrace directly in front of them.’ The chapel includes massive bronze doors embellished with gold leaf cartouches’.

 

  Cemetery Chapel Chapel with General Patton’s grave in the foreground  

P1100730   P1100744

  One of the plaques showing the battle movements in the Western Europe Operations WWII    

P1100734

  5076 American service members lie here. Many lost their lives in the Battle of the Bulge and in the advance to the River Rhine.    

P1100743

  Whilst walking around I spotted a food box in the shrubbery and investigated to find it was a geocache. This I thought most unusual because in UK geocaches are not usually put in cemeteries  or churchyards. However, we followed the trail and each box highlighted a particular person in the cemetery with a little bit of history. The fourth and final cache was, appropriately, an ammunition box with a log book and an invitation to go to the visitor centre to collect a small gift –key ring tags. The geocache was set up be the U.S. Embassy and the American Battlefield Monument Commission.    

P1100751   P1100764

We then drove on to Remich, about 30 minutes, by the River Moselle. The lower part of the town looked quite deserted and we realised that many of the shops had moved away because of the high risk of flooding.




Remich when flooded

P1100772  P1100775

                                   Drinks in Remich close to the river.

P1100785

  Moving on we stopped at Mondorf-les-Bains, after seeing an advert for an Art Deco exhibition. Unfortunately it was just a taster exhibition of about 20 pieces.    

P1100795  P1100800

  Many of the older houses in Mondorf LB are built in the Art Nouveau style. Very nice.    

P1100803  P1100807

  Sue in the spa gardens    

P1100819

Echternach – 5 miles north of Rosport is the oldest city in the country, we had to shop here because Rosport doesn’t have any shops. I said it was small!

P1100942  P1100947

Little Switzerland is thought to have similar terrain to its namesake country, hence the name; it is dominated by craggy terrain, thick forests, some caves. We didn’t walk too far, but it was very impressive.

P1110026  P1110029

  P1110039  P1110044

Castle Beaufort – dates from the 11th century and consists of the ruins of the medieval fortress and the adjacent chateau. We stopped here and visited the fortress on our tour of Petit Suisse (Little Switzerland).

P1110047

We had a quick trip to Grevenmacher to see if I remembered any of it from my cycling trip, with friend Neil, in 1963.
I don’t think the Youth Hostel, where we stayed, is still there.

P1110088   P1110091

A day trip to Bernkastel Kues, Germany – about 40 miles away from Rosport. You can see the vineyards on the hills. Photo taken from the Kues side looking at Bernkastel which is the touristy side.

P1110101

Bernkastel Kues - Graacher Tor
behind Sue                                          

Marktplatz

P1110117  P1110125


Marktplatz
Pointed House – dates back to 1416 and is one of the most photographed attractions along the river.

P1110134  P1110130

Rathaus – Town hall Kaffee and Kuchen in Karlsbader-Platz

P1110137  P1110148

Another day another place, this time Trier in Germany. The city dates back to about 16BC when it was established by the Romans Ornate doorway in the Domfreihof

P1100985   P1110012

Sue at the Dom Porta Nigra – the largest Roman city gate north of the Alps

P1110005  P1100992

Dom St. Peter in Trier – Trier Cathedral, the oldest bishop’s church in Germany, stands today in Trier’s centre above a former palace from the era of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great.

P1100998

 

Oldie Photos -

1963 Porta Nigra –   There were trolley buses in Trier from 1940 to 1970

2013-01-12_53

OK which way is it to Koblenz? Stuart looking puzzled - the longest route is the flattest!

2013-01-12_52